In an effort to connect our suppliers to our customers, five people from Just Local Food recently made a trip down to Viroqua, WI to visit Kickapoo Coffee. We were all beyond-impressed at what we learned, experienced, and tasted...The Kickapoo Roastery is stationed in Viroqua's original 1880s era railroad depot. The seven-person staff uses a combination of antique machinery, modern technology, and human subjectivity when roasting and tasting their coffee. These folks really know their stuff!
Beginning with a laser spectrometer, the coffee is examined to determine its optimal range for roasting. Next it goes to their 1930s German-made Probat roaster (aka, the "Wunderfrau") using radiant, convective, and drum-powered heat. Details from every roast are then entered into a computer and archived for further comparison and review. The final stage is a “cupping” where the beans are personally evaluated and tasted by the Kickapoo staff. They use a series of 100-point scales to measure the characteristics of depth, body, acidity, sweetness, cleanness, aroma, and after-taste. This process happens every week!
The green beans themselves come from some of the most well-known coffee-growing regions in the world. Purchased through a roasting cooperative, distribution costs and profits are shared more equitably. Their first stop is a warehouse in New Jersey upon which each roaster’s bean shipments are sent out accordingly. Storage at Kickapoo is maximized in a temperature and humidity controlled environment, providing an extended shelf-life.
Kickapoo tries to strike a balance between farmer relationships and quality coffee. One goal behind this dual mission concept is to allow the natural flavors and characteristics of the coffee to come through on their own, instead of trying to “enhance” them in any way. 
Another goal is to connect the consumer with the people responsible for growing and handling the beans, assuring that they’re being paid a fair price for their product. They even try to visit each coffee-growing region at least once a year to meet face-to-face with the growers.
Stop by Just Local Food to check out our latest offerings of Kickapoo coffees,
as well as the featured “always-on-sale” bulk variety (changes every month!).
If you think you know coffee, wait till you try what’s coming from Kickapoo…
Report and Photos by Drew G, worker/owner at Just Local Food Cooperative
